In My Rag Bag
Just re scanned my old travel records that I made
in Germany at that time, here is the first offering < 8th May 2010
Vischering Schloss
Goslar
Wernigerode
Quedlingburg views (5)
In Rübeland The Hõhle
In My Rat Bag
Dülmen to Quedlinburg 1996
My first solo Reise(tour) in Germany by car. Availed myself of the
'local 'Ferry service and sailed from Hull to Rotterdam on 12th May 1996.
The Autobahnen across Holland is superb, smooth and relaxing. Entered
Germany via Emmerich Bridge on the Rhein to start point Dulmen in
Germany .This compact Stadt is famous for it's claim to having the last
Wild horse reserve in Europe! The annual roundup of yearling colts( never the Mares) takes place on the last Saturday of May. a big event!.
As a start/return point Dülmen is ideally situated. It is quiet. there are all the services that modern life demands. The Stadt Mitte is easy to get in or out of. Parking a car is not difficult. There are free Car parking spaces near the centre. The Tourist Info is in the Town Hall.
Access to South! North Autobahnen to Rotterdam. to Münster or down to Dortmund and further to South. Across West to East. to Hannover , Hameln, Goslar and the Harz easily reached.
Enjoyed the days in Dülmen and it 's immediate area. There are still many more places around it which I mean to follow up by visiting later. It's not far from the Lippe area which also offers lots of nice Dorfe and small Stadte.
I soon learnt a personal lesson. it is better to avoid large cooked meals. I carried soft drinks such as Gingerbeer. Apfelsaft and Orangenlemonade with me enroute in the car. Naturally I began by filming Dülmen. It has retained it 's pleasant small Stadt features very well. Very relaxing and quiet to stay in.
On Tuesday morning. going into nearby Lüdinhausen, Missing a turning to Vischering Schloss so I dipped into this parking at the rear of some posh offices in order to turn around for the correct Strasse. Just typical of the good luck that seemed to accompany me on this trip. I quickly noticed one name in Germany which I seek out, it was Sparkasse. it was their rear entrance car park. So I stole in through these huge intimidating doors but was warmly welcomed in. On asking if I could access some D. Marks using my newly carried Yorkshire Card. They advised that a new International GEWAUTOMAT had just that very week been installed in the front foyer . The display could switch to most languages etc but it was most Teutonic in it's handling of the time factor etc. When I was slow remembering the Pin number it did not forgive me .When I did press' all' the right buttons . at the 'right ' speed and not miss any : it finally poured the requested D.Marks into my sweaty hands. (My two favourite Banks in Gennany are Sparkasse (Savings bank) and the Hypo Bank.
Anyway I was soon driving down the correct Weg. to Vischering Schloss. Arrived about 12.30pm. Spacious car park. nice short leafy walk past several items which all had descriptive plates. to the Schloss . If it had been the only thing seen during the tour, it would have been worth all that travel. I advise people to seek it out. it is a gem.
I will not attempt to describe it and the other places in words because its done
much better by my Videocamera. Pictures with the sound and atmosphere captured, say
it much better that I ever could. Stopped at a Gartenzentre. Bought two Geranien
which really were eye-
Later I was walking around the Münster Zoo. Had a small meal in the Restaurant .To get your car out of the car park. while in the Zoo , you buy a 'Parkmünze'. a round metal washer with a hole in the middle!. This you insert into the Exit machine which then raises the car barrier!.
A little up the road I popped into another tourist place. the 'Miihlenhof Freilichtmuseum' of Miinster. With over 20 special buildings. Old Mill. Smithy and lots more. The turnable box building of the Mill is extremely heavy. about 200 cwt!. Well worth a visit especially if you like to see what old farming life involved. While there. I learnt that the early poor cottagers grew common nettles along with other plants, for food. The Peacock that is posing in my film was 'not' fastened there. He must have just liked posing so. Returned back to my room in Dülmen for the night.
Wednesday morning. went through Liidinhausen again. by 58 nr Beckum joined the Hannover Autobahn for a while. Dropped off to visit LEMGO. I was impressed. Lemgo is neat, compact and easy to get into. I parked on a 2 level car part free! .It was there a man came over to say that the White Rose of Yorks that my car displayed. was identical to his Stadt emblem. Reading later. I found that Lemgo was one of the rare towns that escaped Second w. War damage completely.
Then parted a short while in Hameln. a lot more traffic to deal with there! The spotting of rain spoilt things for filming so I left early on this visit.
On my way I passed through many 'lesser’ Städte und Dorfe such as Marienau and Bausdorf which had some
very old and interesting buildings. but as the traffic poured through them. they had no chance to breathe.
Hildesheim teatime traffic is horrific. I got away eventually with a very hot engine! On way towards GOSLAR I booked a room for the night .surrounded by Harz woods. in Wendhausen area.
Next morning. Thursday 16th May set off towards Goslar again. The Harz mountains in the distance looked like a long line of very old slagheaps that ~ were long over grown by greenery. Pulled into a Parkhaus in Goslar at 9.20 a.m.
Again this good luck was with me. It was Goslar's early shop closing day. Great for the ease of walking around and filming. Of course lots of people were taking this opportunity to do the same .Made friends with a man and wife pair of cyclist visitor’s.. we seemed fated to keep meeting and photographing the same things. . Goslar is top of the list Stadt in Harz area to go and see.
One thing pleased me. When the car was not present (GB) people were less sure of where I came from. One man thought perhaps that I came from Norway .In the West the English accent was detected by most but as you went East that did not happen so often. I never needed English all across my 'reise. and never had to repeat myself or request it of others. People understood. whether I was asking or putting forward comments or replies. The content of the conversations and the way they moved freely back and forth assured me that we were really enjoying full value of what was said.
Went off by Bad Harzburg (Bad means Spa (health baths) town). Going along towards Wernigerode. in kleine bahnen forest land. very leisurely as the ways were narrow and had lots of bends. Now I stopped for a picnic moment when I saw a grand sign announcing National Park Harz. Willkommen!.1 enjoyed my eats at a forest timber table and benches. Two ladies came and joined me there. We had nice friendly chatter. The older lady soon told me that it was a regular thing for them to stop at this spot for their break. enroute from Quedlinburg. where they lived while on their way to visit the Father who at present was in Goslar Hospital. Of course they urged me on. to visit Quedlinburg.
Having edited this Video now, the glaring omissions are clear to me. I should have sat with my guests at the picnic table (remote controlled videocam) and gently carried the conversation along much better). I resolve not to waste such a opportunity next time by rushing things .
Later on I was parked. Parking ticket paid for and placed behind the windscreen. in Wernigerode for the first time. Yes!. the impression is like time has stood still! .The narrow curvy streets, the very old houses. The flocks of tourists were there too. slowing ones progress down some!!. The huge modern 'Treff Punkt Hotel' that has been erected in Wernigerode is totally out of scale and place. And too damn expensive to stay at!. [Treff is to meeting , Punkt is the point or place]
I soon headed off out of town to find somewhere more reasonable to stay . In a quiet Dorf called Darlingerode I noticed a Feirenzimmer frei sign. As soon as the lady greeted me she made me feel warmly invited to stay & eager to show me around. All home comforts were there. Cosy living room with T. V, full kitchen, showers. toilet. washroom large bedroom and above all I found such peace and quiet during the nights. To say I relaxed and enjoyed it all is a understatement. And for so little cost. BOO! to TreffPunkthotel!.
Three young men called by, in top hats etc. with hooter and bell etc attached to the jacket. I asked if this was special Trad kleide. was it echt ? [ “was this traditional dress and was it genuine ? “] I discovered this day had been 'Männertag' day. all over these parts. The men had got up to all kinds of outrageous behaviour. such as sticking small trees onto their Motor bikes.
They complimented me on using German. it was very rare for an Englishman to speak 'any' German they said.
Next morning Friday .Knowing some things had had to be shelved. I set off for Quedlinburg determined to see it. come what may. Oh! yes by now I'd got the real meaning of UMLEJTUNG.[diversion] I seem to be shuffled in a circle. around every little Stadt in creation. Long and torturous,lots of stops,bumps and crude single line Railway crossings to rattle across.
Passed through lots of poor battered Dorfe. all with interesting items to see but it will be years before those villages get to share the wealth of tourism. [ During Soviet occupation no repairs or building had taken place]
Such names as Benzingerode !, what a name ? How can it live ihat down for a start ? .
Got into Quedlinburg easily .Parked up for free, quite near to the Schloss. The Schloss provided a easy to spot ref point when returning to the car. The sun coming out very warm now so put my lightest jacket on and strolled around filming etc. Nice time. Left approx 1.30 pm returning to Wernigerode and to where I was staying in Darlingerode but before that I headed south/west a little. seeking Rübeland .Some great twisting cool narrow roads lay through the dark Harz forest. Ampel [Traffic Lights] controlled single way bits in some rocky spots. Had to turn around in one place because the only village bridge over it's river was out of order!. It did also have a ford. but 2ft deep water flowed over it .
3.15pm. in Rübeland. bought a Magnum icecream. Parked the car on a 1 hour ticket and joined the next guided tour down through Baumanns Hõhle. Caverns with the staligmites. pools. crystal sections. Sabre toothed prehistoric bear etc. In one pool I watched like the rest. a tiny pale fingerlike thing sticking out of the pool surface near a small rock and while I watched it suddenly moved over sidewards and dropped under the water! Life I asked ? The guide said yes, it is a Amphibian and(now protected)has lived for thousands of years in these underground pools. Bats used the roof spaces too. The air stays constant 7 degrees C all year round.
HermannsHõhle lies here in Rübeland too. Very interesting and the tour lasted exactly as long as my parking ticket! .
Bought a sticker with a jolly Harz Hexe flying on it. for the rear of my car.
On leaving Rübeland I went back to Wernigerode, sight seeing and some fast shopping as it was 6.30pm.
I was the very last Kunde (customer) to be let out of the closing SPAR shop. The
narrow gauge railway had to be missed , another time! perhaps?. Was back to my room
in Darlingerode for Friday night-
Saturday 18th May .I heard the Cuckoo calling, for the first time this year. My Host lady then asked, "did you shuffle the coins over in your pocket?". It was now she told me " you must be a Glückskind! ".
I set off early to return to Dülmen but as it promised to be hot and sunny I decided to try in Hameln again as it was enroute.
Parked behind a Penny Mkt (so I had a landmark when finding my car again!) Everything happened as if timed specially for my visit. The Piper did his music, said his Tale and lead us to special locations for more. Then moments later I was present to hear and see all of the "Freedom of the City " (given to the British Royal Engineers in 1977) celebrated for the first time , 18th May 1996. This Freedom of the City granted the RE's the right to march
down Osterstrasse with fixed bayonets, bands playing and parading through the City centre by the front of Hochzeitshausterrasse and then returning back to Scharnhorst Kaserne. Marvellous weather for it. My heart went out to one young soldier . when his foot slipped on the cobbles, in front of the Dignitaries.
The Brass played a total of 12 stirring Marches.
Leaving Hameln through quieter Dorfe. I pulled alongside and gave a lift to a pleasant lad who was going on to the next Dorf. He volunteered to speak in English stating his Grandfather was English. He studied Art & Skill in Woodwork.
I showed him photos of Ornate Panels, Schaukelpferde which I have made in my home Schreineri. This was a similar direction he wished to follow when his present studies ended.
After I dropped him off I joined the Autobahn for the longer stretch remaining to cover, back to Dülmen and my reserved room for the night. Sat 18th May .
Sunday 19th May. morning. Those 'Glockenläuten '! !. In Dülmen, just the same as in Frasdorf in Bavaria, the small Town church bells did their thing about qtr to 6. A nice harmonious warm combination of bell sizes, quite musical. The church being in the centre view from my bedroom window!. Visited the Wild Horses at the Reserve along Borkener Strasse.
I considered a visit to Rudi and Peter in Ickern, about 31) miles away. But wandering
round City conurbations on my last day was too daunting so resolved not to drive
anywhere but to stroll, sit, admire and be utterly lazy, all day. The Briefmarke
machine managed to rob me of a Mark ! . I saw a huge silver Tie-
This Cravat shop would not be open until 10 am! . 1 couldn’t delay departure for that purchase.
9 am, just past Haltern I noticed a shop with 3 different Bier names on it's windows. This was just what I had hoped for, a shop (equiv to our Off'License) all kinds of Northern German bottled Biers, from West to East, on sale ! .
I bought 3 Kiste of Einbecker Mai-
Instead of via Bocholt, Rees and Emmerich: I decided to latch onto 58 and pass by Wesel, then turn up for Nijmegen and Rotterdam. 2 miles more but was faster.
I do wish German signs did not show Nimegen instead of the Dutch name.
Verdict!!. The most uplifting fun week of my life. I was warmly given so much by the people, where ever I chanced upon. I was treat as a equal not different. I learnt a lot from this Reise. Totally independent, no preset limits, it was great. Never brushed off, never ignored. Genuine interest shown and lots of help and advice given me. The people of the North Germany must have some Yorkshire blood.
So pardon me now. I must now begin to plan the 'second of my last' great Deutschland Abenteuers. perhaps in April/May 1997. Tschüs!!!
